Pyrenean peaks and ski lifts surround St. Lary-Soulan, a small resort town set in a valley at 3,000 ft. elevation. It is 2 hours from Pau, and our launch point for the first 3 days of cycling. The setting is picturesque; the town is ski-condo blah, except for a small town "centre" built centuries ago and updated several times since. At night, a church bell rings out the hours across the valley, with a single peal on the half-hour.
I heard every church bell last night. I think the frustration of no bike must be getting to me. Today, though, I rose to a cheerful sun in a sparkling blue sky and, voila', my bike box was waiting for me in the hotel lobby! The bike box was tagged "Rush" "Rush" "Rush" three times. Apparently, the baggage services lady at the Pau airport had heard my plea and arranged to have my bike shipped in the middle of the night so as to arrive by 8 AM. My joy was short-lived though when I realized that the duffel bag with all my bike gear did not travel with the bike. What the hay???!!! They arrived at the Pau airport together!!! Another misfire--apparently the courier just thought the "Rush" box had to go, not the luggage beside it. No shoes, no shorts, no helmet--I'm still unhorsed. I assembled the bike just to feel its sleek lines and the anticipation of riding.
Jim is in the same situation as me, my buddy in frustration. His luggage arrived last night, 24 hours late, but sans bike box, and via a separate courier from my bike. Each courier round trip is 4 hours from the Pau airport! Jim, the hotel concierge, Jason of Andiamo and I spent a combined 1-1/2 hours on the phone this morning to confirm that the missing gear bag and bike box had indeed arrived at Pau and would be delivered today. Yes, 2:30 PM is the appointed time, they say. Just enough time to climb the Col d'Azet for a 30 km warmup before dinner if all goes as promised. Boy, do I need some hard pedaling to find my equilibrium again!
Meanwhile, we snapped a quick group photo before The Boyz mounted their bikes and headed for Col de Peyresoude, an arc on the Circle of Death. The Pinarello Dogma with Campy wheels is the hottest tool on the trip. Steve, the guy in red, let Jim and I pretend it was ours.
A little later, I walked to le Centre for a quintessential French experience, including a lunch of baguette, grapes and cheese, while waiting for the gear to arrive.
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