Monday, September 19, 2011

Chateau Lamothe


The final two nights we stayed in a chateau near the small town of Maumaur.  The chateau had been recently purchased and renovated by a Dutch couple tired of the shipping industry and looking for a simpler life in the French countryside.  Larry and Kristina opened their bed and breakfast—“do not say ‘Inn’!”--for business earlier this year.  As of today, they have worked from 6 AM to 12 PM 7 days a week for 6 weeks without interruption.  Larry is the chef, main desk person and host while Kristina oversees the gardens, rooms and easy ambience.  Things are slightly out of control in a comfortable way, so that a large box of custom-imprinted towels remains where it was dropped outside the main office.  Wi-fi for the main house, in the form of an Airport Base Station, has arrived but awaits Larry’s free time for set-up.  Chef Larry often shows up carrying a bag of groceries a couple hours before dinner time.  Through this all, Larry and Kristina remain chill, chatting with guests and minding their many daily tasks.

Chateau Lamothe was the first place in France that welcomed us back for dinner a second night.  Of course, there was no other restaurant open in Maumaur so they were more or less stuck with us.  That’s not to say we were loud, rude Americans prior to arriving at the chateau.  Yes, we have animated cycling discussions and hearty laughs that can fill a room, but we prefer to believe 

This must be a posed photo because Jim is pouring...water???
that 13 people showing up at once overwhelms the cook and wait-staff at the smaller restaurants in smaller towns that we’ve frequented.  Some have turned away customers after we arrived.  Some have told us with typical French frankness, “No.  Do not come back tomorrow!” Larry, though, always seemed happy to feed us, and he provided us with two of the best dinners we had while in France, accompanied with generous amounts of well-chosen red wine.

Oh, and by the way, Maumaur has a church with a belltower.  And much like in St. Lary, the church sees it as a public duty to ring out the hours and half hours all day and all night long.   This is NOT quaint and charming to visitors in the middle of the night!  Could the churches just buy every townperson a digital watch???

Larry chatting with Howie, Rich and others




Braised duck with local veggies

Rich got not only the largest room, but two lovely
(and loving) roommates.  That is not a forced smile!

My roommate, a bookish sort



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